What makes a great learner or daily motorcycle?

A good daily motorcycle is always fun. The lower cc motorcycles are nimble, not too heavy and easy to park up!


We have created a list of motorcycle attributes you can look for when buying your first motorcycle. 


You can choose what you think is important to yourself but this list is focused on the different genres of motorcycles for learner riders. 

There is such a large range of good motorcycles available today you are spoiled for choices!

1 Motorcycle engine choice

125cc is a good stepping stone into motorcycling but is generally too slow for town traffic and open road speed zones are not realistic. (Can it be done?  Yes, but you are holding other vehicles up, adding risk for new riders)


250 - 500cc is the optimal engine size to learn on, pass licence assessments and use daily without trouble. Lighter riders on a 250cc will have a similar road speed ability as heavier riders on the 500cc engine size.


As a general guide, anything with 20hp (14KW) will do 100Kph with moderate head winds on a flat road. More power doesn’t mean you need go faster but you might need a larger cc motorcycle with more power to go up hills or carry some luggage - The effect of air resistance, road inclines and rider weight all consume the engine’s ability to take you down the road and this is why we recommend 250cc or larger as a first purchase motorcycle.

Single cylinder engines over 250cc

Smooth and torquey without urgency, no surprises with the power delivered.

You can do all road legal speeds on a single over 250cc all day long.


Typically it is cheaper to buy a single cylinder motorcycle, maintain and insure it.

Twin cylinders over 250cc

Twins are the better option for longer stretches of road. 


They provide more urgency in the power delivery with less engine vibrations.


These features make twin cylinder engines more desirable than single cylinder engines when wanting an all purpose motorcycle.


Three and four cylinder engine options

Not generally recommended for absolute new riders, but every motorcycle is supposed to be ridden so it is your choice.


These items are often out of the price range for many new riders - motorcycle cost + insurance + running costs + steep learning curve.

2 Motorcycle Type


Not sure what motorcycle to get?

The most comfortable and easy to control motorcycle will be the naked motorcycle.

Motorcycle types in naked category: Commuters, Classics, Scramblers, Sporty items.


Naked motorcycles generally offer comfortable rider positioning, mid to sporty foot positioning and easy wide handle bar positioning.


They are called naked bikes as they have no fairings or wind deflection attached to the motorcycle. 



Looking to do some off-roading as a recreation?
Road legal motorcycles with a off-roading focus typically have long stroke soft suspension. The seat height is always tall for the purpose of long suspension travel.


Single cylinder motorcycles are lighter and easier to manage off-road. Twin cylinder motorcycles are more peaky in the power delivery and do offer better touring on roads as a mixed role motorcycle due to the engine nature. 



Looking at general road travels and out of town trips?
Something with some wind/weather protection makes a better choice for touring or longer journeys, these are similar to naked to motorcycles offerings but have half-fairings and can add or have windscreens and generally over 400cc and above is better for adding some luggage and makes hill climbing easier.



More of a sporty type? 

A full fairing or naked motorcycle will be your area of interest but sports bikes with full fairings normally have narrower and often lower set handlebars, higher foot pegs which can put you in a good “sports” rider position but not ideal for riding beyond a few hours at a time as the riders body is not in a relaxed position compared to naked, touring and off-road motorcycles.

3 What about used motorcycles?


The used motorcycle market is a good source of learner friendly motorcycles.


Most used motorcycles when priced at market rate are good value and have been maintained hence the asking price. 


If you have to do any large service interval tasks once purchased using a paid workshop service, it knocks down the asking the price of the motorcycle and that fact may already be reflected in the cheaper price point you have seen. Only think about getting a cheaper bargain assuming things can be fixed and the motorcycle runs and lasts for a while longer and can be re-sold later in working order.


At the end of the day, a bargain is not really a bargain as you have to pay for the service and parts at some point - we call that a project bike!


For absolute new learner riders we would recommend a new item or near new items less than 3-5 years old

Motorcycle dealers often have good value trade-in items so best to visit your local stores - Remember dealerships typically inspect the motorcycles they re-sell and don’t want unhappy customers so quality vehicles are part of the dealership shopping experience.


Talk to friends or your local workshop if you have a used motorcycle on your watch list you are interested in. 



Here is a list of things to look for that affects reliability and price.


Has the motorcycle got a WOF and active road registration?

If the registration has lapsed and now de-registered, it may still be possible to re-register and re-certify a motorcycle that has previously had registration in NZ but a few things are needed.


1. Proof of the last registered owner matches what NZTA had on record ie a photo of drivers licence or detail noting the previous owners licence number, version number, full name and address. Stolen motorcycles will be impossible to re-register without a new VIN plate via dealership / NZTA involvement.


2. Original OEM parts required. Any aftermarket lamp/light plastics, wheels and other fittings usually will not come with approved road use markings and sourcing replacement originals can be difficult with aged motorcycles.


3. If the VIN number is available you can then check the vehicle details on website https://carjam.co.nz (just ask the individual selling it)


Receipts for recent service tasks?

Any history to show motorcycle maintenance has been performed.


Tyre conditions?
Are the tyres still round with reasonable tread remaining (3+ mm depth) or flattened badly on the top? 

Are the tyres even the same matching make and model tyres?


Is fuelling done by carburettor or EFI (Fuel injected?)

Carburettor motorcycles generally work well but aged items need maintenance when idle, acceleration and poor fuel economy issues occur. 


If any carburettor motorcycle that has been sitting for more than a year without use then this will need maintenance as the fuel will varnish with air present and clog fuel lines and parts. 


All motorcycle fuel tanks will show some rust at some point in the life of the motorcycle and more than normal amounts of rust showing will be very obvious without regular use, the fuel filter may need to be replaced or tank cleaned if rust content is set heavy.


Do the brakes have ABS?

Brakes are brakes, till you need to do an emergency stop. Not having ABS as a feature isn’t a deal killer but can be a risk for inexperienced motorcycle riders. 


Do the brakes work, front and rear?


Does the gearbox work well?

Ride the motorcycle, in each gear ride to its mid rev range and roll of the throttle to reduce speed for a bit - Does the gear jump out of drive into neutral? (Called a false neutral) - If it does might be a good sign some maintenance is needed.


Do all the electrics work?

Test all the switch gear, make sure all items like dash back lights, brakes, indicators and headlamp low and hi beam works.


If the motorcycle is over 5 years old, did the current owner ever need to replace the battery?


Motorcycles left outside for long periods of time often have faded plastics and the switch gear will often feel sticky instead of smooth when used. Switch gear can be re-greased to re-instate normal switch gear feel.


How many Kilometres on the odometer?
More than 40,000km and you may have to do some routine service tasks or book a shop to do items like valve clearance checks, bolt checks, brake pads, all fluids, wheel bearing and steering head checks, spark plugs and chain replacements if the previous owner has not done any major interval service tasks.


Has the motorcycle been dropped or been in a crash?

Not all used motorcycles had a good life.
A dropped motorcycle is usually only a cosmetic topic and parts are quite easy to replace but what if a motorcycle has been crashed? 

  • Are the suspension forks straight?  
  • Is the rear wheel in alignment with the body of the motorcycle body?
  • Does the handlebar look straight or symmetrical?
  • Does the motorcycle leak oil from the engine or suspension parts?
  • Any paint differences or overspray showing on the body work?

 

Remember, a project fix-up is not an ideal motorcycle for absolute beginner rider!

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